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24: School Bus Build- Closet Space

Stage 24: Building the Bunk Room Closet

Since we started with the bunk beds and the last thing to build out was the closet, we went ahead and finished that out. We framed the walls with 2x4s, just like every other wall and secured to the studs that run horizontal on the sides and to the plywood under the floor.

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We used the 1/4″ plywood for these walls on the side of the bus/interior closet. Less weight and I only needed the studs for my closet system I wanted to hang.

NOtice below that we added a piece of wood across the top of the closet from one end to the other. We did this on every closet we built, including the bunks and bathroom. This also allowed us to add trim later as well as keep it all secured.

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We used the same 1/4″ plywood for the interor side walls too. We used 3/4″ on this side, which is my closet, so it could support the shelves we would be building. Notice the top of the walls scribed to fit the grooves of the ceiling. I also insulated the space b/w inside of these walls too with foam board, as mentioned in previous posts.
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Closet Maid System I custom created. One bloody Nose while use bolt cutters to cut the shelves to fit LOL
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Some Planetarium Silver Paint by Behr
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Add a curtain and trim and done! When it is clean it looks great!
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The bunk Room thoroughly gets used on inside days! I forgot to mention, we also built a box over the wheel well, see it under all the crap?

The box over the wheel well is also secured to the wall/studs with L brackets so it does not move in travel. It is a great spot for my printer, Big paper we use for projects, bedding containers, and kid books.

The main shelving on too hold toiletry extras,.paper towels, Tp, towels, and an office supply 3 drawer unit. The kids each have their own shelf and rod for clothes, toys, and books. The drawer system is 4 drawers. Each child has school stuff in a drawer, I have a craft drawer, and the smallest drawer is for the animals brushes/tooth care/backpack, etc. I have loved using large containers with lids.for the kids clothes and organizing boxes. I may buy a shelf system you hang from the rod to try a new way of their clothes being organized. It is all an experiment really!

Closet maid system: https://amzn.to/2nFYAgu

Closet Maid Drawers: https://amzn.to/2BdZ2vU

Back to:

Stage 22 :Building the Bunk Beds

Stage 23:Building the Master Bedroom

Stage 23 Re-Do Master Bedroom

Forward To:

Building the Utility Closet (coming soon)

Utility Closet+Electrical Design-Coming SOON

Building the Bathroom (coming Soon)

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23: Skoolie Build Master Bedroom

Stage 23: Building The Master Bedroom

Once the Bunks were done, the Master bedroom was easy to tackle. We just needed a bed frame, some walls and closets.

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However, we wanted to be able to be in cold places in the winter, so we decided that our water tank should be inside where it would not freeze. Along with our other water lines. And, at the time, we thought we would be boon docking more so we wanted 2- 100 gallon water tanks under the bed. These tanks come in all sizes. We found ours at an irrigation supply store in Odessa, TX. We used bulk heads and pex piping to plumb it out into our residential plumbing we later installed. The tanks I found were rather tall, which meant we were building a loft bed at the time.

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We built 6 of these frames, a top and bottom for the frame. We later added some l brackets to the corners on the inside and underneath to make sure there was extra support. No pics of those though.
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Our English Mastiff, Mila, loved the tall bed because her dog bed was going under our bed and that meant she could just walk right into her spot!

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We also made the bed in three pieces so we could detach the middle of the bed to use the back exit door if we ever needed to. We got this idea from an Alaskan couple on YouTube who built their bed this way for that reason. We have actually had to take the bed apart quite a bit since installing it to access the tail light wires (behind the brick wall), take out the water tanks and put in a new one, to build a new bed frame, etc. So that idea worked well!

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I put felt between wood joints to help with squeakiness!
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To make the middle removable in the middle we just used long bolts, washers, and nuts, 2 on each side.

We also screwed the bed frame to the 2×4’s In the wall by countersinking the screws, and we screwed it to the floor as well. The frame took up the entire width of the bus so that it would be able to be screwed into the bus wall, and later we add a foot board with secret storage here!

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A place to sit down, what?!

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At this point we learned of the Perfect Butt and began using it on the walls. Notice how the wall in Ryon’s closet fits snugly to the curves of the corrugated metal. This took some time to do. We had to have a scrap trace piece and eventually got it perfect…trace, cut, fit…trace, cut, fit. But it looks great! For these walls we used ¾” plywood but we could have went with ½ “ plywood. It was just on special so we went with the thicker wood that was cheaper!

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Crab’s/Misc. Closet After, before trim
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Crab’s/Misc. Closet Beginning . Also notice the top of the wall curving with the ceiling now.

I built my side of the closet…it is not square lol!

 

 

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My Closet Beginning
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My Closet After, Before Trim

 

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My Closet and Headboard Before (we should have just came all the way down with that board. I don’t know what we were thinking. We had to add a piece of wood when we dropped the bed 1.5 years later. Link below article.

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My Closet and headboard After, Before Trim
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The Foot end of the bed. Crab used an old piece of a beam that went in our friend’s house as a shelf for our room! He even beat it with a chain to give it texture! Before Trim and Renovation.
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My oldest did a lot of sanding of the beautiful birch walls.

Pretty Much DONE!

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Here is what the bedroom looked like all done. We purchased a Queen Foam Zinus mattress from Amazon. It came all rolled up so it was easy to bring in the bus and unroll. We had to let it set for 24 hours so it would rise throughly, but it still works fine 2 years later!

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The bed came to my stomach and I am 5’6″. With it at this height I would have to literally climb into bed LOL!

A year and a half later we decided we were only using 1- 100 gallon water tank of the 2. 1 tank would last us 3-4 days if we were boondocking, but honestly, we just weren’t doing it enough to justify the added weight and higher bed. Plus, sex was kind of uncomfortable being so close to the ceiling! We also discovered you can find water anywhere on the road. So we found a 42 gallon fresh water tank from https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/ (free shipping deal, total cost $80), replumbed it to fit the RV fittings, and lowered the bed J I will eventually have a link here to direct you to how we plumbed everything.

Back to Stage 22: Building Bunk Beds

Here is the link to the Stage 23 Re-Do: RENOVATION of the MASTER BEDROOM (COMING SOON).

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22: School Bus Build- Bunk Beds

Stage 22: Building Bunks

When we started officially building in the bus it was winter time, right after Thanksgiving 2016. WE started with the Bunk Beds, after some time learning metal work first. Why? We knew for sure the general layout of the bus, how big our bed space needed to be, the kids beds, that the closet for most household and kid items would be in the area across from the bunks, and everything else was flexible. The bunks were the center for our imaginations so we started there. In doing this we basically completed the master bedroom, the bunk room, and began the bathroom. Yay tiny spaces! 🙂

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We used 2x4s and Wood screws to secure the bed to the studs we put up on the walls.

I looked up a typical twin size bed and went with 39” Deep x 75” Long exterior. Leaving the hallway to be 28” and the rest of it was left for closet space. A standard twin foam mattress fit inside of each fine, and I squished it in on the sides.

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WE used long wood to metal screws to insure we got a good hold on the bus metal ribs under the ceiling. These are spaced out decently, so we just followed our ceiling screws path to make sure we attached to the proper rib.

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We built our walls sturdy as hell. Let me repeat, our crap is sturdy. We didn’t want things falling, breaking, whatever. So we overengineered it. Almost 2 years later, no issues. I am just saying:).

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We did use the ¼” wood for the bunk room and closet interior walls to save on interior space. You can see we started adding it as we framed the bunks. But ¾” wood was used on the rest of the house.

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We did not learn of the scribing tool “The Perfect Butt” until after we started this room, but notice the walls curving with the ceiling. Because we went with corrugated metal, they do not fit as snugly as a flat ceiling. Later on, you will see how the tool worked for us and how much better the other walls looked.

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Let the over engineering begin. LOL! WE used these brackets from Home Depot to stabilize and make sure the beds survive all of the bumps from the road and the jumps from the kids!
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We did not stick with the big pieces of wood (Large measuring sticks) on the sides of the bunks as pictured here, but it was an idea we had…ever evolving even the bunks were! The front panels were the thin ¼” material.

The space b/w the walls on either end of the bunk beds is 2” bc 2x4s were used for the framing, thus leaving quite a bit of empty space. Secret compartment would be cool, but we filled it with foam board for added sound insulation since our room will be butted up next to the kids

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Little Ri and Daddy Crab Working on some foam cut outs. A Dry wall hand saw was an easy tool for this job…and a utility knife!
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Our Little L Bugs (7 years old here) helping with the Foam Board! SO STRONG 🙂

If you noticed in the pictures before, there were a few windows in the bunk area. Like I said at the beginning, we were building this in the cold weather in West TX so this made us re-evaluate covering more windows to keep the heat inside. So we grabbed some foam board and insulated the windows (DID NOT REMOVE THE WINDOWS BEFORE, We did not see the need to) and covered with plywood!

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We made slats for the beds and spaced them accordingly. There is some storage underneath the bottom bunk that I mostly use for board games, winter clothes, and Legos! It is basically for stuff we get into peridocially. The rear wheel wells are also back here so it was easy to just cover this side up.

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We also added a piece of wood to act as a smooth bed rail that Ryon and our friend, Jesse, made custom for each bed:). He came to visit us from Colorado to help us with the build for a few days! We were happy to have him there to help pitch in too! If you don’t remember, he also helped us re-seal all of the bus windows too back in the beginning!

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Later on in the build, the girls got to customize their rooms with the colors they wanted, stickers, and even a rock climbing wall!
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The rock wall saved space on a ladder and is fun on a rainy day.
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They were really a great price. Found on Ebay for $15, hardware included. Here is a link to some that work the same I recently found on amazon. They have different colors too! I just had to counter sink the bolts using a large drill bit.a caption

The foam mattresses I found were from Walmart, and they were 6” thick and about $80 each. It was a tight fit but they easily pushed down! I recently purchased a new foam mattress for the bottom bunk from Amazon by Zinus and it was 3” wider but still I was able to cram it in. Foam is flexible!

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Bunks complete minus the Trim.

We eventually trimmed out the bunk at the end of the project. That was kind of our motto during the building phase, “Fuck it…we’ll trim it.”

GO TO:

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The bunk Room 1.5 years later

Stage 23: Building the Master Bed

Stage 23 Re-Do RENOVATION: Master Bed Renovation (1.5 years later) (Article COMING SOON)

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Bus Conversion/ RV Renovation Rear Deck Progress 2 of 3

Next step is complete! We got the 16 gauge hot rolled steel mounted with 5/8″ long x 3/16″diameter rivets on all 4 sides. Next we have to Grind, degrease, and paint!
Now that we enclosed Chitty Bang, she is still secured while on the road. When The deck is up and locked, someone has to make a lot of noise to lower the 300lb deck and then break into the bus on the rear. It is an awesome space to store stuff and enjoy the views, but it’s also a safety feature!

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22: School Bus Build Mistake #1- Hanging Walls

So if you couldn’t tell by the title, we messed this step up. Not really messed it up, but just did the work and realized it was not going to work in the long game. We thought covering the walls was next. We bought some wainscotting panels and cut and..

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Then we hung it up with TEK screws. About a days worth of work too. If you have ever screwed a tek screw into metal, you will inderstand how exhausting it can be!

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Then we thought about this decision over the next week or so while we worked n other parts. How will we anchor the furniture and other things we need to later on? Does it really matter that the spray foam is still exposed even if furniture is covering it and will never be seen? How much money did we just waste? LOL. I am happy to say this was the only time in the project we spent money on a supplies and our time, and it just wouldn’t work.

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And since we cut them, we could not return them. So we turned them over and used some as a floor cover after we put the linoleum down, so it was not a total loss:)

You can either go on our journey until we corrected it:

Stage 23: Ceiling Material, Some Prep, and Completion

Or Skip to Where We Corrected This Problem

Stage 25: Framing The Side Walls

Or Back to

Stage 21: Installing External Storage Boxes Part 1